CLOUDLAND CABIN JOURNAL - APRIL 2008

Part A - 1st thru 16th

 

Cloudland Journal Archives, Cloudland Cabin Info Page

 

cam1a

Cloudland Deck Cam, 04/16/08, 7:55am - clear, windy, and warmer

 

April Print of The Month

 

Updated Wednesday morning - LOTS of new gravel!

 

4/01/08 Today began for me on top of a craggy bluff looking down on a beautiful green Boxley Valley that filled with glorious light, and twilight found me at the edge of a small creek deep in the wilderness. Like most days around here it was a good day to be wild.

 

We survived another big storm last night, but just barely. My computer bit the dust again during the storm. As things began to settle down a bit Pam opened the door to the back deck and proclaimed it sounded like the ocean out there - we had lots of moving-water noise coming up from the Buffalo and Whitaker Creek, plus thundering waterfalls that were pouring off of Beagle Point and the other ridges, some of them plunging as cascades down 700 feet of hillside. It was a thing to behold, and to listen to. The wilderness was singing at the top of its lungs all night.

 

Before I get into my hikes today I want to give a report about the lightning strike from a couple of weeks ago - the one that nearly burned down our warehouse. I found a tree about 25' outside the warehouse that had been struck by lighting - the bolt ran down the trunk and into the ground, following one of the tree's main roots. The root went about four feet over to where the phone line was buried in the ground. The lightning strike had exploded the ground all around and there was trench from the base of the tree over to the phone line about a foot wide and nearly two feet deep. Looked like Aspen had been digging. Then the blast traveled along the phone line on into the warehouse and blew out the phone jack, sending bits of plastic and wire across the room, and melting some of the components. There really is no way to defend against this sort of attack, and that is almost always what causes damage here - direct strikes that come in through the phone or power line - sometimes even though the air. There is no longer a phone at the warehouse!

 

It was still kind of dusky-dark when I headed out early this morning, hoping to locate a waterfall that I had suspected was living in a steep hillside ravine that feeds into the main Buffalo River in Boxley. There was no direct access to this ravine when the river was up high like it was today - the upper flanks are surrounded by private property and the lower access is blocked by the river. My plan was to park and hike down the Buffalo River Trail and then slide on over across the front face of the hillside until I reached the ravine. It all worked out pretty well and it was a wonderful stroll through the early spring woods as light was beaming into the forest. The rocks in this are more like chert, sharp bits of crushed limestone - as opposed to the softer sandstone rocks we have around the cabin. There were tiny bits of color all over the forest floor as zillions of little wildflowers waved in the breeze.

 

And then I FROZE. There was something coming at me in the thick brush - I just saw movement, and it was colorful movement at that. He was coming right at me - one of the most beautiful coyotes I've ever seen! These guys normally are much better at avoiding humans than this, and you will seldom ever see one in the wild this close, but he just kept coming my way with not a care in the world. I had froze in place right next to a large tree so my outline was broken up a bit, but eventually he would have to either see me or run right into me. As he approached closer I happened to look up and found a second one about 50' away - this guy was staring right at me, drilling holes right on through me as if to say "I SEE YOU!" Both of them were bright colors of brown and gold and black - almost like a calico cat. A few seconds later the original coyote saw me and without hardly any extra motion at all veered off and disappeared, just like that. The other guy vanished too. I continued my push towards the ravine.

 

It was a little tougher going that I had planned on, or perhaps it was farther. Eventually I worked my way on down the hill and found myself standing on the banks of a raging Buffalo River - no way I could have crossed that thing today. And soon I found the mouth of the ravine I was looking for, but my heart sank a little bit when I realized the water was not flowing all that well, and while there was a waterfall or two up in there they were not very spectacular.

 

It took me a while to pick my way on up one side of the crumbling bluff where the lower waterfall was pouring over, but I eventually made my way on up and over and I explored this little ravine to see what else I could see. With each step I took I had this nagging feeling that I was missing something, and soon I happened to turn around and saw what it was - the old Boxley Baptist Church was rising out of brilliant green pastures in the valley behind me and across the river, as the sun began to break through the heavy cloud cover above. Since that church was white it really stood out. It was a very rich landscape, made more interesting by the cloud formations moving around above. The scene got richer with each step I took, yet my frustration level began to grow - there was no way to get a photo of this great scene since there did not appear to be any openings in the heavy forest cover.

 

I was bound and determined to find a spot to shoot through, and so I picked up my pace and began to hunt for a spot, although the sun was burning off more and more of the cloud cover and soon it would just be another plain old scenic - but for the moment the quality of light was pretty nice, so I searched on.

 

I scrambled up the loose rock to the top of a small ridge, then followed it back DOWNhill to a point where I was able to find a hole in the trees - but just barely. I rushed around and got the camera all set up and began to make photographs as the shadows of clouds moved across the distant hillsides and the green fields below me. It was just one of "those" scenes that stops me in my tracks - the brilliant color of the field and sky, the stark white of the church, those clouds in constant motion. And there were cabins and cows and all sorts of things going on in this busy valley. I stayed and shot for about 45 minutes until the light began to get harsh and flat.

 

While I stood there on the edge of the world with a beautiful scene spread out before me I thought about how incredible springtime is here in Arkansas, and especially the month of April - it is the very best season that you can find anywhere in the world. I decided that I wanted to experience as much of this particular April as I could, and so I made up my mind to get out every single day this month to explore and enjoy April in Arkansas. And as proof of my travels, or perhaps as validation for doing so, I set a goal to produce one "portfolio grade" photograph each day. That will be a large chore as often these types of scenes only come along once in a great while, and making a great photograph of them is even harder. But that is what I plan to do, no matter what it takes. And so I created the first in this short series, and this image of Boxley Valley is not the April Print of the Month (above).

 

This evening just before dark I headed out once again with heavy camera bag and tripod, this time I brought Aspen and Lucy along. We dropped on down into a local favorite hollow of mine nearby, a place filled with rushing water and life all around. I hiked past one waterfall after another after another, stopping to inspect from all angles before moving on - even though I had already made my photograph for today I was only looking for the very best light and scene!

 

Lucy got a little frustrated with me each time I would stop - she wanted me to keep going, always moving that dog is, and it seems like she never stops to just enjoy - I guess she gets such a kick out of flying through the woods she does not need to stop. I think sometimes she thinks that if they runs fast enough she will take flight.

 

After passing by several waterfalls I landed on the little creek below - and on this day it was flowing pretty good and making lots of music. The sun was about to set in the distant trees, and while I don't normally like to point my camera towards the sun I literally stumbled onto a composition that just reached out and grabbed me - that is what I seek out when I go on these adventures, scenes that just bed me to capture them. And so I set up my camera gear and spent about ten frantic minutes getting everything just right and trying to capture at least some of the magic of this spring evening on the creek in the woods. Lucy was not happy, but my camera was.

 

It was a full day for me that included bookend photographs, and hiking experiences to go along with each. It is going to be a great month to live in Arkansas!

sunset1

Evening light in Dug Hollow

 

04/03/08 Very black outside just before first light this morning - the break of day is late due to black clouds above I assume, but the landscape it being lit up a little bit with distant lightning up high. We had some rain overnight but nothing like the heavy storms that were predicted. It is warm so I expect we will get more rain today.

 

I started the day yesterday standing on the top of the big bluff below our cabin photographing one of the most beautiful serviceberry trees in the county, and it was in full bloom. This tree really stands out against the dark background of the distant hillside, and the tree really lights up as the sun rises - yesterday that sun rose behind a bunch of clouds that were lit up themselves with the colors of the new day. Aspen sat next to me while I worked to make sure I got it correct.

popcorn1

The popcorn tree, my shot of the day

 

Then I made a mad dash down south to see if I could get a few photographs made before the big storms swept through the state. I toured around Petit Jean State Park but did not find anything to my liking. There was plenty of water running in the falls but it was black and yellow and not too appealing. Dogwoods and redbuds were just beginning to pop out - looks like next week will be spectacular at Petit Jean, but I left disappointed and did not even get the camera out of the bag.

 

I turned my attention to this one area back up in the Ozarks that I have wanted to explore for a couple of years, and while I had wanted to spend an entire day doing this I figured now would be a good time. A couple hours later I found a spot to park in the woods and got my plans in order. I did not have a map, nor my GPS, and I did not have any food with me - pretty good planning ey! I was able to get a good look at the lay of the land, and I had looked over a topo map of the area several times so I at least had an idea of my plan of attack. The problem was that this particular drainage was six miles long and I had no clue where to begin or where the really good stuff was - I knew there would be waterfalls down in there and that was my mission, to see out and discover them! So I basically found what I thought to be a good place to start and headed off into the woods.

 

Soon after leaving the car I came to several large boulders just sitting on top of the ground on top of the ridge - I always find that strange - where in the world did they come from? There was no bluffline higher up for them to have broken off of and rolled down from - which is normally the case when you see chunks or blocks of sandstone. Each was covered with multi-colored lichens and had eroded sides with a great deal of personality.

 

Within minutes of leaving the car I was headed down a very steep hillside into the heart of my target drainage, and I could hear the river roaring below - that was a good sign. I found not one but two pretty neat waterfalls that poured over mossy ledges in a side canyon - another good sign. And finally I landed at the bottom of the main canyon next to what I would call a typical but quite beautiful Ozark stream that was in full spring dress. There was whitewater everywhere as the clear waters danced and tumbled over and around and past boulders that lined the streambed. Most of the trees were still bare, but there were quite a few popcorn trees in full bloom and a redbud coming out here and there. I could have stopped right there and taken a dozen photographs - however in an effort to lighten my load so that I would be more agile while bushwhacking I left all of my camera gear back in the car - this would be a trip to explore only, no work behind the camera to get in the way!

 

And it worked - this was the very first time I can recall in recent memory that I was able to explore freely without having to worry about compositions and stopping to make photographs. While I absolutely love working the camera, it IS work in my brain, and so it was great to take off a little bit of mental energy. And I was free as a bird to hop from boulder to boulder since I did not have heavy weight on my back from the camera gear, and it was pure joy just to scamper around and act like a kid again as I explored this beautiful drainage for the very first time.

 

I decided to follow the waters downstream and see where they went. The narrow valley floor was carpeted with wildflowers the entire way, and that carpet extended on up the sides of the canyon too. Many of these were just plants so the carpet was all green, but there were also many thousands of tiny wildflower in bloom, which added a great deal of color to the landscape. And all around were boulders in the woods and in the creek that were covered with bright, rich, green moss. Can you see the smile on my face? It was gorgeous every step of the way.

 

As I continued downstream I kept mental track of how many drainages I passed, wanting to make sure I knew the way home. I figured I would simply hike downstream until I had explored enough, then retrace my steps back to the car - that is the easy way not to get lost when you have no other means of direction. Every now and then I would stop and send an e-mail message to my bride back at the cabin. I have one of those "Find Me Spot" devices that will send a message via satellite to e-mail addresses, along with a link to a google earth map that will give you three different views of the immediate area along with exact GPS coordinates. It is a really handy device that I have been using for several months not to let Pam know where I am, but it also is a reference for me when I return to see the exact locations and get that GPS data. One of my workshop students, Tom Overbey, told me about this thing last year, and I have found it to be a terrific tool. It will also allow me to send two different types of emergency messages - one a simple e-mail to Pam to call for non-emergency help, and then an actual "911" button that will summon search and rescue. A fourth button sets up satellite tracking and records my location every ten minutes - I can log onto the computer and see all of those spots later, or Pam can do it and track my progress. I bet I've sold a couple dozen of these things since Tom told me about it - the company should pay me|! (I don't accept free merchandise though for anything that I use normally - I would not want to skew my recommendations if you know what I mean!)

 

I continued to explore downstream for a pretty good ways, and was about to get discouraged when I had not found any waterfalls on the main creek. And just about that time I looked far ahead and could see the landscape drop out of sight - a WATERFALL was just ahead, yippie coyote! And soon I was standing at the upper edge of a "punchbowl" waterfall - the creek dropped into this round emerald pool that was perhaps 100' in diameter - the waterfall was not really tall, perhaps only 15' or so - but the location was just beautiful. I took a few snapshots as I made my way down through the small bluffline and took a few moments to soak it all in.

 

Just a little ways downstream I came to another waterfall location, and this one had the main waterfall cutting across the creek from one side to the next in a long "slide" that flowed under another waterfall that was coming in from a side drainage - cool, trey cool! I was able to stand in one spot and see both of these waterfalls - very nice indeed! One problem with a location like this one was the fact that I knew it would be nearly impossible to make a photograph that showed the great power and beauty of this scene - sometimes the camera just can't do that. But it was a spectacular location and one that would certainly be worth my time to return later with my real camera.

 

While looking around this spot I found one ledge of rock that stuck out over the rushing waters that had a carpet of wildflowers in bloom - it would make a really neat photo but there would be no way to get into position to photograph it, so it would remain one of those "mental" photos. Yes siree Bob, this was the type of water feature I was hoping to find in this new place! I continued downstream happy as a clam but always looking for more.

 

And MORE is what I found, and I didn't have to look much farther. Downstream just a little ways the ground once again gave way, but this time the creek had carved a deep notch right into a bed of sandstone and created a genuine slot canyon, one of only three in Arkansas that I know of. Not quite as deep as the one on Shop Creek (my photograph of "Slot Canyon Falls" is from there), but it was still quite impressive, especially since the view on this one was from the top. At the head of the little slot canyon there was a boulder blocking the passageway, and the creek spilled around both sides, creating a "V" waterfall around the boulder. This would make a great photograph looking upstream, but there was more.

 

Downstream the slot canyon twisted and turned and then disappeared - all I could see what emerald water beyond. I hurried around and soon stood on the upper edge of an even larger round pool of green - the slot canyon emptied into the pool at a 20' or so tall waterfall - it was quite sight to behold. YIPPIE COYOTE! This was nice, very nice indeed.

 

I surveyed the area and made a few mental notes about what it was going to take for me to get some good photos of the spot - it would not be easy, or safe. That slot canyon would be a slick and dangerous place to work, if it were even possible to get into a good position to get the best composition. OK, yes, I would return.

 

I continued on downstream hiking past more carpets of wildflowers and boulder-strewn whitewater, and since I had filled my big boots up with water at one of the waterfalls (trying to get a better view), I did not hesitate to simply splash on across the creek whenever needed. I explored downstream for another mile or two and did not find any more waterfall areas. There was still a couple of miles or more to visit downstream, but I was beginning to run out of gas and daylight so I decided to turn around and head back to the car.

 

My plan was to take a different route back up the steep hillside in hopes of finding a quicker and more direct route into the waterfall area. So instead of hiking back upstream I simply headed up the very steep and rocky hillside on an angle - I eventually found an old logging road up there that I followed for a little while - but then it suddenly ended, right there in the middle of the woods and on the side of the hill - those old "skidder" trails do that often. I decided to follow the side drainage up and UP and out, and I found another old trace that went literally straight up the very steep hillside, past another interesting waterfall. Hard to believe they could get a skidder up something that steep, but even harder to think that a mule could have gone up that, especially if he was towing a big log, but that it probably was an old mule trail, and it had to have been 40-50 years old or older from the looks of the trees growing in the middle of it.

 

It took just about all my mental and physical energy to make each step UP, and I realized that the next time I made this trip I would have probably 50 pounds of gear on my back - so I had better ENJOY the light pack while I could!

 

I eventually worked my way on up to the top of a narrow ridge, then followed it the only direction I could, which was out of the heart of the wild area. At the end of this little ridge I found something very strange - and UPLAND SWAMP! A swamp, up here in the Ozarks, out in the middle of the woods - really? Yes, absolutely. I knew of one other swamp like this one and it was not too far away - at the edge of the East Fork Wilderness on the other side of Hwy. 7 near Hector. Now there are two of them.

 

Now, if I only knew where I was.

 

I can find my way out of any wilderness as long as there are ridges and canyons, but you put me in flatland and I get lost crossing the street. I had landed on top of the ridge with no mental direction at all since everything was flat and lots of trees all around so I could not "see" out (I don't carry a compass, nor would it have helped me in this spot - you have to know where you are on a map before a compass will do you any good). So I closed my eyes and tried to "feel" which direction I should go, and then my boots started moving. I was very relieved when I came to a forest road within a few minutes - knew to turn left to get back to the car, but did not know how far the car was away - I was running out of gas in a hurry - I had not eaten since early in the morning and it was now getting close to dark. I knew this road was at the top of the canyon all along the southern border, but did not know exactly how far I had gone downstream or how far I was to the west on the map - if I had gone very far it would have been several miles back to the car due to the lay of the land.

 

I was shocked when I rounded a corner after having hiked only 1/4 mile on the road to see my old blue bomb sitting there - YIPPIE COYOTE!

 

One item was on my mind and kept me going during my steep hike out of the canyon - I had planned to make a detour through Jasper on my way home and order up a big greasy cheeseburger and curly fries from the Ozark Cafe. I have eaten there probably 100 times since moving to Newton Country, but I have always ordered a salad - yet I've seen and heard the delights on many who have consumed one of these legendary burgers, but I have always resisted. But TODAY would be my day, and that thought did have a positive mental impact on me being able to climb out of that steep canyon with relative ease.

 

Yet my plans were blown when I picked up the cell phone and got a call from my lovely bride - HEAVY STORM AND BIG HAIL ON THE WAY - GET HOME QUICK! So I put pedal to the metal and flew home, arriving before any hail could bounce off of my shiny new car (actually the car is a year old next week and has about 50,000 miles on it, but it still seems new to me!). Turns out the storms did not materialize as advertised, and we not only missed out on any hail, but didn't get but a trace of rain all night. I'll just have to save that big old cheeseburger and curly fries for later...

 

My trip to explore this brand new area to me was a big success, and I plan to return soon when conditions are right to photograph the waterfalls - you will be the first to learn if I am successful!

 

04/03/08 Late Night Update. I got to spend a GLORIOUS couple of hours out this morning with my camera and new tripod in some of the thickest fog I've ever seen! I went from scene to scene and it seemed that each one got better and better. I love old barns and naked trees in the fog, and old plows and other assorted farm machinery, and, of course, cows - I love cows in the fog!

 

There is this one spot at the far end of Cave Mountain that has a number of tall pine trees in the middle of a hillside pasture. That hillside is quite green right now, and the combination of all that with the fog this morning stopped me in my tracks. I started out trying to photograph several calves way out there that were silhouetted against the hillside, and ended up finding a composition that included five or six pine trees, with one of them towering above all else in front. I stood there for nearly an hour shooting different combinations of cows as they ate their way on through the scene. I have a hundred photos to look at and pick from but this is one of my favorites so far.

FrogCows1

 

Once I get some time I'll process and post more of the photos from this morning, but for now the skies above are lit up like crazy and we are in the middle of a gigantic lightning storm - funny though, few of them are hitting the ground and while they are putting on quite a show above, there isn't much damage going on down here. I really need some sleep but I keep wanting to step outside to watch the show. Sometimes when the entire sky lights up it is all purple. With the sound of the rolling thunder, the rush of the rivers far below in the darkness, and the chorus of peepers all around the cabin, it is quite the symphony going on outside - think I'll go open up the windows and listen while I drift off to sleep.

 

Some of you may find this amusing. I have always had difficulty falling to sleep at night and it has often taken me hours to get there. With no real way to get any constructive work done during this time, I have often made up situations in my mind - fantasies I guess - to pass the time until I would eventually drift off to sleep. In the early years I would think about stalking a big buck or scoring winning touchdowns. Later came girls, but I was an odd kid I guess in that these were not sexual fantasies, but rather ones where I would find the girl of my dreams and we would live happily ever after. Then there were the years of searching for gold coins buried deep in the wilderness. Since I met my lovely bride nearly eight years ago, most of my life's dreams and fantasies have been fulfilled, and so when I have those nights where it is tough to fall asleep I don't have much to make up in my mind! However, lately I have been dreaming about waterfalls - can you believe it, WATERFALLS! Imagine that. So I suspect with so much rain all around and the lust and lure of the new found waterfall spot awaiting me, that will fill my mind tonight - the search for great waterfall photos. I was probably not the first egg selected from the nest, but I'm sure glad that mom got me!

 

04/07/08 I left the house at 5:30 Friday morning and drove through thick fog to reach the parking area for the new waterfall spot. I was all packed up and headed into the woods a few minutes later equipped with climbing gear and special wading boots along with all of my usual camera stuff. It was just beginning to break daylight and I could hear waterfalls crashing with each step I took.

 

I followed a small drainage down, down, down the steep mountainside. This drainage was filled with moss-covered boulders of all shapes and sizes, and whitewater tumbling over them creating beautiful cascades and waterfalls all the way. I could have stopped and shot hundreds of photos, but I kept going, pressing on towards my goal at the bottom of the hill. The water was running clear and clean - that was a good sign. It was overcast and misty - another good thing. Looks like they had a couple inches of new rain the day before. Conditions were nearly perfect for waterfall photography. I quickened my pace, so much so that I worked up quite a sweat even though I was going downhill!

 

When I landed at the bottom of the hill at the main stream named Bear Creek, I entered a dream world that few photographers get to experience, and began a mental high that would last for four hours. I could have easily stayed there for days - I did not need food or liquid or sleep - my soul would be nourished by the waterfall gods!

 

I photographed the first pair of waterfall for a couple of hours, and named them "Sidewinder Falls" - the upper falls cuts across from one side of the creek to the other while it drops over a ledge and slides into a small canyon; and then in the middle of that canyon the waters from the drainage I had followed in dropped over a taller ledge and came crashing down on top of the main creek. Found a spot at the top of the upper falls where I could see them both at the same time - no way I would be able to capture the immense power and beauty of the place with the camera but I really did not care - it was just wonderful, amazing.

 

The only real problem with this first spot was the fact that over my shoulder I could see another waterfall on the main creek - one of two in this stretch of Bear Creek that reminds me of Punchbowl Falls over on Dry Creek - it would have to wait for another day as I had other fish to fry.

 

Eventually I made my way down to the bottom of this little noisy canyon and spent some time photographing just the lower falls - the waterfall pouring in from the side seemed even larger than the main waterfall - it had a great shape to it too. Lots of lush green all around, and everything had been wiped fresh and clean by recent rains.

 

Knowing I had a lot on my plate this day I reluctantly packed up my camera gear and moved on downstream, leaving on the special wading booties I had been using to help navigate these slick canyon floors. These little booties were not meant to be used out in the woods as they have no tread, just a smooth felt sole, but I knew the next waterfall was not too far downstream and it was much quicker just to leave them on. I arrived at the upper part of the slot canyon in just a couple of minutes - oh my goodness, what a spot!

 

This is the place that I brought the safety equipment for, and I was all rigged up and ready for my first photo in no time. The upper part of this area is spot where a large boulder blocks the creek and the rushing whitewater has to go around it - and is also the spot where the creek had carved out a narrow canyon down into the solid sandstone bedrock, creating a "slot" canyon, one of only three in Arkansas that I know of. The waterfall that is formed going around the big boulder looks like a "V" to me, so that is what I have named it for now - "V" falls.

 

The photographic challenge here was the fact that the best spot to take a photo of this falls and the upper part of the slot canyon that it spilled into was from the middle of the slot canyon, but the waters were going so fast and it was kind of risky being down in the bottom - if one could stand up down in there at all without being washed away downstream. So my plan was to have myself roped up to a nearby tree for safety sake, and then try to get my big new tripod into position over the middle of the canyon - this way I would be able to see more of the neat sidewalls of the canyon - you really had to be there to understand what I mean.

 

Anyway, I had just taken delivery of this really TALL tripod, which had legs so tall I figured I would never use them (they extend out to seven feet!). But without these new legs I could not have gotten the photo I wanted. I ended up standing on a tiny ledge that stuck out about four inches wide down in the middle of the canyon wall, with two tripod legs on my side of the canyon and the third leg raised up to 90 degrees and spanning the entire canyon and resting on the far wall. The camera itself was attached to the tripod out there in the air, directly over the middle of the rushing waters about eight feet below. The only way I could actually see through the viewfinder of the camera to compose the photo was to lean out over the middle of the canyon and put my full weight on the attached safety strap (attached via rock climbing harness around my waist and legs). And it WORKED! I felt quite safe and was able to see and compose and take the picture. YIPPIE COYOTE!

 

I used the same technique to turn around and point the camera downstream, which was an equally powerful scene as the canyon narrowed and got steeper and the entire creek went crashing and curving down through the lower part of the slot canyon. I spent at least another hour or more there, with my camera and me suspended over the water. The safety harness, the giant tripod, and a new lens and polarizing filter contraction that I had been working on getting set up for weeks all worked just great. (I had to order a special polarizing filter from a company in Hollywood in order to fit this new lens that is really wide - the filter is a special one used by the big movie cameras and it was kind of scary handling it while suspended over the waters crashing below, but I needed it and it worked!)

 

The lower end of this slot canyon spills out over a ledge and into another large pool of emerald water, creating a second punchbowl-falls-like scene, but I was running short on time and did not even point my camera at it - my time was up in this waterfall world and I had to return to reality. It would be a long and difficult trek back UP the steep hillside, made even worse by the weight of my wet gear. But I had packed in a bottle of "vitamin" water and a bright yellow banana, and after consuming both just before my climb, I was able to make it to the top of the mountain without too much pain (well, actually there WAS a great deal of pain since I am so fat and out of shape, but I was able to keep going, and that was something I was very thankful for!).

 

I loaded up all my gear and sped back home, recycled myself and my camera equipment, then packed up workshop materials and sped off once again - my weekend waterfall workshop would begin at 5pm. Whew, what an adventure!

 

While the cloud gods were not good to us for the workshop - cloudy skies are need for the best waterfall shots - sunshine KILLS waterfalls - we were able to get out early and late in the day and found some great waterfalls to shoot. I tend to not shoot much during these workshops since I am teaching and not shooting, but at the end of the day everyone is pretty much on their own and I got out my camera and found some pretty amazing compositions, and that evening light was just terrific. Everyone got into that waterfall high as well and we did not make it back to the lodge until 9pm.

goldwater1

 

WaterfallStitchBW1

 

SixFinger1

Six-Finger Falls at twilight, my shot of the day for Saturday

 

RayScottTripod1

Here is one of my photo assistants, Ray Scott, helping out one of the students

 

After the workshop was over I made a short detour on my way home to photograph some Dutchman's Breeches wildflowers we had found the day before - an entire bench filled with them in fact! When I got out of the car a splash of RED caught my eye that drew me over to it. While this bench was covered with wildflowers of all shapes and sizes, it was this RED object that became the subject of my photo of the day. There were hundreds of brand new shoots of Ohio Buckeye trees all over the place, each one sprouting leaves of brilliant fresh spring green, but this one little guy that grew directly out of the ground was a pronounced RED color. I've seen this before with maple trees, but this little guy was the first buckeye I had seen like this, and he was growing right next to a moss-covered rock. I hope you enjoy his vibrant color as you begin your new week!

Buckeye1

Baby Ohio Buckeye, my shot of the day for Sunday

 

Oh, by the way, you may have noticed that there are no photos from my magical waterfall trip on Friday - I have not had time to look at them and select some for processing but do plan to do so later today or tomorrow or the next day. It is enough for me having experienced this incredible place and coming home with photos. But I will get some up soon for you to enjoy too...

 

Evening update. The sun has just gone down and a TINY sliver of a crescent moon is handing low in the western horizon - it looks kind of odd since the lit part is facing directly down, not to either side - not sure I've ever seen it like that before. The air is alive with the music of peepers and other frogs - they are singing their hearts out tonight, perhaps since they know a big storm is headed our direction! If we get a lot of rain we may be stranded here at the cabin - the county road leading into our place is in pretty sad shape, in fact we would have been blocked from travel if not for Pam's dad who came to the rescue over the weekend and spend a good part of the day filling the holes so we could get by. I spent more time yesterday evening hauling rock and gravel via tractor to further help out, but as soon as we got ahead of one hole the bottom fell out of another one! Oh well, just one of the joys of country living!

 

We made a quick hike into Lost Valley this afternoon to look at all the wildflowers that were popping up all over the place there - I never got to take any pictures of them since the wind was blowing so hard, but I did get to make a photograph of a group of ferns in their "fiddlehead" stage - this is how these ferns first look as they come out of the ground, and the continue to unfurl until they look like a fern (by the way, these delicate tips are also pretty good eating - I had a few the other day while on one of my waterfall hunting trips). It was great to get out and stroll in the woods with my lovely bride, especially after the pressure of my self-imposed "photo of the day" was taken. Now if I can only find something to photograph tomorrow!

item4a

Fiddlehead ferns along the Lost Valley Trail, my shot of the day

 

Oh yes, and here are a few images of the waterfalls I shot last Friday - I finally had a little bit of time today to sort thorough some of those images and these are some of my favorites.

item5a

Sidewinder Falls (above), lower Sidewinder falls from downstream (below)

 

item6a

 

EnfusedImage1

V Falls and the slot canyon (above), the slot canyon looking downstream (below)

 

master1

 

04/08/08 Just a quick update late tonight. We only got a trace of rain overnight - so much for the "heavy" downpours that were predicted. I spent much of today on a tractor hauling gravel from our parking lot out to the county road to fix a hole that was swollowing up cars - we were basically trapped in here until the hold was filled up with larger rocks I collected around the place and about eight loads of gravel. We are able to get through now, but it is sinking...

 

On my way back from a quick trip into town to pickup taxes, I made a short detour over to one of my favorite waterfalls, Kings River Falls. It was nearly dark when I made it to the falls but I spent the rest of daylight working with the camera and the beautiful scenes spread out before me. I've only processed a couple of them tonight and wanted to share them with you...

KingsRiverCascadeBW1

Cascade above the main falls

 

KingsRiverFalls1a

Kings River Falls and the last light of the day, my shot of the day (those are popcorn trees upstream)

 

04/10/08 Just a quick update as I must head back out to shoot waterfalls. We had 4-5 inches of rain overnight so naturally all the waterfalls are funning full tilt. The rain pushed up one of the main culverts on Cave Mtn. Road and Pam had to take Amber to school (a four-hour trip via the back way) since the school bus could not get off of the mountain. I slipped out for just a little while to photograph the photo at the top of the page of Hedges Pouroff, which is the 3rd tallest waterfall in Arkansas. While I was standing there the sun broke through and swept across the landscape, lighting up the waterfall and creating a vertical rainbow - the first one I had ever seen.

 

I spent yesterday afternoon exploring one of my most favorite spots in the state, Graves Creek, and came home with a bucketfull of photos. With the storms moving in last night and this morning I did not get a chance to look through many of them but wanted to share this one with you below. I'll post more later but now I have to get my ducks in a row and go take a few waterfall photos...

 

GravesCreek1

This is one of many images I took Thursday in Graves Creek

 

Here are a few more photos from my trip yesterday...

ortonsmall1

But first, a wild peach in Benny's field

 

item7a

 

item8a

 

item9a

 

item10a

 

HedgesRainbowsmall1

Hedges Pouroff with rainbow (Thursday morning as the big storm was breaking up) - can you see the flooded Buffalo far below?

 

CF004548a

And here is a shot of "Rainbow Falls" that I took this afternoon!

 

04/16/08 The air felt a little warmer early this morning but still had a bite to it from a wind that has howled and gusted and pushed on nonstop for the past several days and nights. We've had some frigid mornings of late with temps in the 20's and low 30's, but today it is up towards 50. Springtime is slow to come to the high country - only a few trees are beginning to leaf out and the landscape remains mostly brown. What little time we have had for short hikes have revealed little of springtime - dogwoods still mostly closed up tight, wildflowers wilted or timid about opening up, and bare trees.

 

We have found several forests of mayapples that have sprung to life. The first ones we found were all teenagers - only a single stalk with no "apple" at all. The forest next door was mostly adults that had two stalks and all of them had tiny apples. I don't recall seeing a forest of them without any apples before.

 

Redbuds are coming along strong, but the wild plums got hit with the hard rains last week and cold temps and are mostly no longer blooming - I'm not sure if we will have any wild plums or not.

 

One wildflower that does seem to be thriving are the tiny woodland violets - some hillsides are simply covered with them, and I don't recall seeing so many before. They have brought much life to the stark landscape of brown, but you have to get down and look close to really enjoy them.

 

Nice clear BLUE skies all week, but I expect that will change tomorrow with another rain front moving in. I realize the lower parts of the state are still flooded, but we are pretty dry up here in the hills and so another inch or two of rain will be welcome. We had great water conditions for my photo workshop last weekend, and since I have two workshops to teach this weekend a little rain will be extra welcome.

 

I've been spending a lot of time on the tractor this week - mending roads. We got hit pretty hard with the heavy rains and have had a lot of repairs. One stretch of the country road leading into our place was so bad we had to fill it with a couple thousand bucks worth of large crushed limestone (4"+), but first all the clay roadbed had to be dug out - thank goodness Pam's dad and Benny were around to get the dirty work done. I had already put several tons of rock and gravel into this road "pit" and now finally we can drive over it without sinking in.

 

I have a slide program in Little Rock tomorrow at the Church at Rock Creek - this is for Arkansas Outdoor Photographers photo club and I don't expect much of a crowd - at least it won't look like much of a crowd even if lots of people show up since the place seats 2,500. It is open to the public and I will be doing one last showing of the Yellowstone in Winter and Arkansas Waterfalls slide programs - starts at 7pm. I'll be doing another slide show in Little Rock next month at the Governor's mansion, although honestly I'm not looking forward to that one since the new resident has put so many restrictions on artists like me it really has taken all the fun out of it (like we can't use ANY of our own equipment - this means the quality of my presentation will not be as good as it can be, nor am I allowed to sell any books - since this is a free show I'm doing that kind of bites since I won't be able to even get my gas money back - oh well, I didn't vote for the guy).

 

We're on the run today, and tomorrow, and Friday, and well, for the next week or two solid, but I hope to be able to spend some time recording the terrific spring that is about to explode in the Ozarks!

 

Cloudland Journal Archives

Tim Ernst Photography
Home
Cloudland Journal
Guidebooks & Maps
Picture Books & Calendars
Nature Photo
Screensavers & DVDs
Photo Workshops
HikeArkansas.com
Black Mat Prints
Slide Programs
Tim Ernst Bio
Stores Near You
Buffalo River
Dealer Terms
Outdoor Links
Contact Us
Tim Ernst Photography
Home Cloudland Journal Guidebooks & Maps Picture Books & Calendars Nature Photo Screensavers & DVDs Photo Workshops HikeArkansas.com Black Mat Prints Slide Programs Tim Ernst Bio Stores Near You Buffalo River Dealer Terms Outdoor Links Contact Us
FreeCounter